Wednesday, May 30, 2012

摄影笔记--A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words


 【网上关于摄影的讨论】


我算拍了不少相片,但很惭愧,有了好相机就依赖“自动”对焦功能,也可能我注重拍摄一刹那“打猎”的感觉,也承认忙,家里又有好手,特别发现,现在的后期制作PS很厉害,可以使麻雀变凤凰,不得不用心一下,先把别人讨论的一些内容笔记下来。慢慢整理,删减。


A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words 

风子这句话很经典,还有这段经验之谈:
 
Lens, tripod and post-processing skills are no doubt important in
producing good photographs.  A good camera having high sensitity in
low-light conditions is also important, particularly in situations
where using a tripod is not an option. 
 
For my trip photos, I did nottake a tripod with me--impractical in places 
(such as a theater or amphitheater, as a result all photos were taken 
hand-held.   I wasable to do that because my camera can handle high 
ISO--enabling me to take clear photo at relatively fast speed. 
 
Post-process using Photoshop may be important to the quality of a photo. 
 I've heardpeople say that a good photo is 50% photography plus 50%
post-processing.  Ansel Admas was known to manipulate films in
darkroom in order to produce good photos.  Some artists spend months
post-processing photographs to achieve what they have in mind. 
 
 Since post-processing can be very time-consuming, although I'm tempted 
to doa lot, recently I've tried to stay away from it as much as I can. 
In the end, it's a proper balance of several things: lens, tripod,
post-processing, photographic skills (composition), creativity,
camera, etc.


当然这副是最合我心意的,不用PS,完全是摄影技术。


[摄影者说明---all I do is I play around a little with the timing and f-stop, for this I had 1/2000 sec exposure and f stop f-5, the flower was in the bright sun, pic is straight out of the camera no photoshop, lightshop etc. the stem is barely visible since everything else is dark. I used the macro setting for this shot】


----关于非器材决定论的最令人信服的文章可见 “Your Camera
Doesn't Matter” (http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/notcamera.htm)。在那里,摄影师Ken Rockwell列举了许多例子及摄影作品链结来说明器材相对于摄影技能而言,是次要的。*

我觉得在技能一定的情况,好的设备更容易产生好的照片。在器材差别上,摄影老前辈“ Moab已指出了不少。在取景面积方面,由于crop factor,如果FX相机是以一双圆睁的水汪汪的大眼睛看世界的话,DX相机所见好比是睁一眼,闭一眼或眯着眼。从感光灵敏度而言,FX有一定的夜视 ,而DX在光源不足的情况下(如果勉强能拍的话)噪音会很高。FX的色彩dynamic range有如优秀的opera singer,音域很宽,而DX则如常人音域。

我从前觉得不错的是panasonic的无镜单反,它轻便,体积小,功能不错,也有不同镜头,宜合作walk-around相机,它的效果比普通非SLR相机要好些,但同Nikon D300相机甚至更低的比要差些。

如果人生的一个瞬间值得捕捉,不如以接近完美的方式来捕捉那个瞬间。:)

*Rockwell更多的文章是讨论器材问题,如让我中毒很深并最终响应了他的号召的“Nikon D3 Lens Suggestions”http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d3/lenses.htm)。


------For night photography, generally I generally use slow shutter speed or long exposure.  Aperture value may vary depending on the type of photographs.  But if I want a great depth of field so that you can see everything (foreground and background)--large aperture makes background out of focus, I tend to use F8 or higher (e.g. F11) if on a tripod.  For best quality, use low ISO values (e.g. 200)--again you need a tripod to do that.  For the harbor photos I used high ISO (e.g. 1500) so that I can get more light for the exposure time I managed to set to without causing too much blurry.

-----The gear I suggested for night photography is not expensive. Any entry-level DSL with exchangeable lens (for example, Nikon D90 w/ stock lens) plus a tripod should do it.   But before getting into DSL, read my blog—I remember I had one on the potential consequences of getting deep into DSL.  I started with D80 (the former version of D90) with 1 or 2 lenses added over the next couple of years, 2 years later I got D300 with four lenses gradually added, less than a 1 year later I got D3S plus three lens all at once…


------I haven't used a d3 series myself. But I've seen photos from them and they are the winners hands down in terms of sensor performance. Go to dxomark and compare: D3, D700, D300:

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Compare-sensors/%28appareil1%29/485|0/%28appareil2%29/441|0/%28appareil3%29/440|0/%28onglet%29/0/%28brand%29/Nikon/%28brand2%29/Nikon/%28brand3%29/Nikon
That being said, a camera is more than just what the dxomark tests. For example, the lower end D90 actually has a higher score than D300, but I would go with the D300 on any day. What looks good on paper might not be better when you actually put it to everyday use. What's good on paper doesn't always translate to superiority in daily use. Too many variables.





https://www.google.com/search?q=creative+photography+ideas&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=7BCcT9a_DYmc8QTFvNyUDw&ved=0CEEQsAQ&biw=1144&bih=643#hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&tbm=isch&q=cool+photography+ideas&revid=1590399389&sa=X&ei=h4TBT5DGKciY6AGW4LTUCg&ved=0CAQQgxY&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=ccc715cd9db7a99a&biw=1280&bih=598


#######

-----Canon EOS 5D Mark II 戏称无敌兔,新一代是Canon EOS 5D Mark III戏称无敌伞。这款相机功能强大故称无敌

Nikon D5100 是一款非专业摄影家常用的相机。它比Canon 5D II/III Nikon D700/D800 低一个级别。为了给你一个大轮廓,我把几款相机的Sensor的尺寸比较一下:Canon 5D II/III Nikon D700/D80035.9*24 mm
Nikon D510023.6*15.7 mm 稍好一点的傻瓜例如CanonPowershotS95: 7.44*5.58 mm 这是我刚刚在 DPREVIEW 上查到的。仅供参考。

1. 分了三层, 从高到低:云,天, 其余。
2. 调暗了天, 调亮了建筑草地。 因为云在上面一层, 不受影响, 和调暗的天增大了反差。
3. 合并了天和最下面一层。
4. 再次分出天的左上阳光部分。
5. 加了一透明层, 在左上加了桔黄色, 适当减少Opacity (加盐少许)。
6. 阳光层用Color Burn

感光度,又稱為ISO,是衡量底片對於的靈敏程度,由敏感度測量學及測量數個數值來決定,最近已經被國際標準化組織標準化。對於較不敏感的底片,需要曝光 長的時間以達到跟較敏感底片相同的成像,因此通常被稱為慢速底片。高度敏感的底片因而稱為快速底片。以外和感光度密切相關的一個ISO系統是用來測量數位 影像系統的敏感度。無論是數位或是底片攝影,為了減少曝光時間相對使用較高敏感度通常會導致影像品質降低(由於較粗的底片顆粒或是較高的影像雜訊或其他因 素)。基本上,使用較高的感光度,照片的品質較差。


 胶片曝光表 ISD100/210

F  光圈  【对景深,距离远近而言,聚焦在那一点上】
 S  速度 【对光线的状况而言,亮,速度放快值大,暗。速度放慢值小】

阳光普照的海边或雪地 F16   S1/125
阳光普照之浅灰色景物 F11 1/125
晴间多云或薄云 F8 1/125
阴天或阴影下 F5.6 1/125
大阴天 F4 1/125
阴暗的雨天 F4 1/60
室内景物 F2.8 1/30
窗外暮色曝光 F2 1/30
晚间明亮室内 F1.4 1/30
[40瓦荧光灯] F4 1/4

白天室内光线明亮 F4 1/30
夜间明亮日光灯 [1] F2 1/15
夜间250W2 [1米远] F2 1/20
舞台灯光 F2 1/30
晚上明亮街灯 F2 130
工地灯光 [20---30米远] F8 2-­--3.5
节日彩灯及霓虹灯光 F8 1-----6.5
晴天.月亮.景物.天上 F5.6 1------4.5
舞台全光 F4 1/30




PHONE  SHOP

* you don't need PS, you could start with freeware like Picasa (http://picasa.en.softonic.com/)
It is very easy to use.



PS,先打开color窗口(F6)click Window, check Color. 然后在ToolBox 里选Eyedroper tool,对准所需颜色click,Color 窗口中就显示RGB值。


这里有一个颜色空间转换的网站,可以在 RGB, CMYK, HEX, HSV 等颜色空间转换。

http://web.forret.com/tools/color.asp



 

 photoshop  CS5-healing brush tool


步骤总结如下:
1. Open a new file with transperent background content
2. In the target picture select the background, inverse selection
3. Copy the selection
4. Paste the selection to the new file with transperent background.
5. Save the picture with transperent background as gif format(一定要GIF.


再把醋的盖印法搬过来。
1 把印选出来。
2 Selection Selection Tool (或 Marquee ToolLasso Tool,不能用Move ToolMove Tool 会把颜色也一起移走)移到所需位置。
3 Cut-Paste Special-Paste in Place (如果直接 Cut Paste 容易错位)
4 Layer-Layer Style-Bevel and Emboss



  1. 做透明底版。Open a new file with transperent background content(如下图。作完后放到一边) 
  2. 2. 打开红鹭的图片。
    3. 在红鹭的图片中作如下操作。 Select-Color Range,然后用Eye Droper 点击背景,然后Click OK

    4. 然后作如下操作,Select-Inverse34这两步,这样做的原因就像蝌蚪说的为了快速准确地把图选出来)。
    5. Edit-Copy
    6. 然后Paste 到第一步做的透明底板上
    7. Save the picture with transperent background as gif format(一定要GIF.



我提到的HDR是指对同一景物用不同的曝光量拍三张以上的照片然后用PhotoshopHDR Pro 合成。
http://youtu.be/NsaS5vgzlek
下面是你说的HDR Toning 看起来很出效果
http://youtu.be/LPD6kEHfCtE


1. Open Fishing.jpg (by RedHeron)
2. Open Sunset.jpg (by Shaizi)
3. Copy Sunset.jpg to Fishing.jpg (now in the Fishing.jpg there are two layers, the top layer is Sunset, the bottom layer is Fishing)

Step 2: Select the water and create a mask
1. In the Layer Pallet click the Fishing layer
2. Select the water (I used the Quick Selection Tool)
3. Create a mask (Windows->Mask)
4. Click the Mask Button as indicated by the arrow in Fig 1.

Fig 1


5. The mask was created. Right click the mask symbol in the Layer pallet as indicated in Fig2, Click Apply Layer Mask.

Fig 2


Step 3: Rearrange the order of the layers
1. Bring the current layer Fishing to front (Layer->Arrange->Bring to Front)


Step 4: Adjust the position of the Sunset layer
1. Using the Move Tool to move the sunset layer to the position you like

Step 5: Adjust the color of the Fishing layer
1. Go back to the Fishing layer, adjust the color (Image->Adjustment->Color Balance, Fig 3)

Fig 3

在上面的基础上,再加倒影:

把海平面以上部分COPY 一个新LAYER,然后翻转,平移下来,压扁一下.再调LAYEROPACITY. 再用SMUDGE TOOL 把倒影抹一抹。

不过严格地说如果远处的夕阳和石头在视平线(天际线)以下,而且离天际线距离较远,水面上是看不到倒影地。




有人玩三维图像没有?

http://tinyurl.com/cj4awtx

不需按他(她)所说来调侧面和底部的明暗。只要调Curve就可以了。(Image-Adjustments-Curves





1.         镜头. 我出门扫街一般不用大镜头. 不利于偷拍一般就用最简单, 也是最便宜的镜头: EF 50mm f/1.8 II. 这个镜头新的也就$100. 这个镜头最小, 携带方便. 而且是标准的头像镜头. 另外, 这是一个不变焦距的镜头, 比可变焦距的镜头要锐一些.

2. 我一般用RAW format. RAW format的一个特点就是file size很大. 比如这张照片就是5616x3744. 所以我可以裁得很小. 只有不到整幅照片的20%. 原照是这样的.


3. 我一般用Canon的软件处理. Canon好象一直没有公布自己相机的全部参数. 所有其他软件都要靠猜. 效果肯定比Canon自己的软件要差一些.

4. 相机.

5. 最主要的还是要手稳. 这个需要练. 你看蜂王的照片就知道了. 用三脚架当然最好. 但太麻烦. 另外, 还有一些小技巧. 例如, 把相机里的镜子先抬起来. 可以减少震动. 另外, 快门速度要大. 还可以用连拍.

File Name IMG_8327.CR2
Camera Model Canon EOS 5D Mark II
Firmware Firmware Version 2.0.7
Shooting Date/Time 5/16/2012 7:11:23 PM
Owner's Name
Shooting Mode Aperture-Priority AE
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/400
Av( Aperture Value ) 4.5
Metering Mode Evaluative Metering
Exposure Compensation 0
ISO Speed 500
Auto ISO Speed OFF
Lens EF50mm f/1.8 II
Focal Length 50.0mm
Image Size 5616x3744
Image Quality RAW
Flash Off
FE lock OFF
White Balance Mode Auto
AF Mode One-Shot AF
Picture Style Standard
Sharpness 4
Contrast 0
Saturation 0
Color tone 0
Color Space sRGB
Long exposure noise reduction 0:Off
High ISO speed noise reduction 0:Standard
Highlight tone priority 0:Disable
Auto Lighting Optimizer 0:Standard
Peripheral illumination correction Enable
Dust Delete Data No
File Size 23897KB
Drive Mode Continuous shooting
Live View Shooting OFF
Satellite signal status
Date/Time(UTC)
Latitude
Longitude
Altitude
Geographic coordinate system
Camera Body No. 2421405383
Comment



raw就更应该用canon的软件。

IS当然有用。

mirror, 看这个图, 2就是mirror。按下快门,mirror抬起,光通过,在感光板成像。mirror抬起时,会产生振动。可以先把mirror抬起来,减少振动。叫mirror lock。没什么用啦。

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a0/SLR_cross_section.svg



露天或舞台上


没别的办法 - 一般规律是高 ISOS(快门优先),快门设 1/100 以上。同时,根据舞台照明情况与你所拍的人物,可能需要一到两档的曝光补偿(暗背景减少曝光,亮背景增加曝光)。ISO 与曝光补偿都要根据具体情况试着来。室内任何情况有架子最好。

如果有可能,开演前或演出开始的时候在自动档用望远定在一个人物的脸部测光。然后换到手动,用刚刚测得的感光值(当然需要换算成高快门,大光圈的等同通光 量设置,如果快门太慢可能还得提高ISO)拍摄。先拍几张看一下,心里有底可以一直留在这个手动档一直拍下去。看样片的时候很重要是 make sure 脸部不要曝光过度,这个舞台环境 tricky 一点。

手动(M)目前可以不考虑。眼下自动状态下三档 P/Av/S 应该足够。注意经常观察取景窗里面的光圈快门数值,久了会对你日后用手动有帮助。学手动还可以用原来的小相机帮忙,那个功能也相当全。

ISO 800, 1/30 (为了拍舞起来的绸子 - 不然应该再快几倍), f4.0,零补偿:


“光影大师”博客:

http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_5bc41e820102dtcu.html